How to Stop Brake Fade on Long Descents

You're halfway down a long descent when your brakes start feeling soft. You squeeze harder but get less stopping power. By the bottom, you're white-knuckling it with barely any braking left. Sound familiar? That's brake fade and here's how to fix it.

What Is Brake Fade?

Brake fade occurs when your braking system gets too hot to work effectively. There are two types:

Pad Fade

Your brake pads overheat and the friction material breaks down. Cheap organic (resin) pads are especially prone to this, the resins that bind the pad material can literally boil off, creating a gas layer between pad and rotor that reduces friction.

Fluid Fade

Heat transfers from the pads and rotor into the caliper and brake fluid. If the fluid gets hot enough, it can boil and create air bubbles. Since air compresses (fluid doesn't), your lever goes soft and mushy. Sintered pads are excellent conductors of heat because of their high metal content. This passes the heat into the rest of your braking system including your fluid.

Signs of Brake Fade

• Lever pulls closer to the bar than normal
• Brakes feel "wooden" or unresponsive
• You need to squeeze harder for the same stopping power
• Burning smell from brakes
• Squealing or grinding sounds
• Visible smoke from calipers

Long descents where you need to be constantly on the brakes is a true test of your braking system. These bikers are descending a pass in the Chilcoltins with bikes loaded with overnight gear.

How to Prevent Brake Fade

1. Fix Your Braking Technique

This is the most important factor. Most riders cause their own brake fade by dragging brakes constantly.

Instead of: Lightly dragging brakes the entire descent

Do this: Brake hard in short bursts, then fully release to let brakes cool

The key is giving your brakes recovery time. Even a few seconds of no braking lets significant heat dissipate. Think of it as islands of braking. You look ahead for where you want to apply maxing braking with the most traction. Other times you stay off the brakes to allow you to stay on line and your suspension working at it's peak.

The ideal braking points in this photo would be the two flat sections before each roll in.

2. Use Both Brakes Properly

Your front brake does about 70% of the work. If you're only using rear (common for nervous riders), you're overworking one brake while underusing the other.

3. Upgrade Your Rotor Size

Bigger rotors = more surface area = better heat dissipation. The difference is dramatic:

Rotor Size	Best For
160mm	XC, light trail, lighter riders
180mm	Trail, all-mountain (good baseline)
200-203mm	Enduro, e-bikes, heavier riders
220mm+	Downhill, shuttling, e-bikes on steep terrain

4. Consider Cooling-Optimized Rotors

Ice Tech and similar heat-dissipating rotors can dramatically reduce operating temperatures.

What to Do When Fade Happens

1. Stop immediately in a safe location
2. Let brakes cool for 5-10 minutes — don't touch the rotor!
3. Check pads: Glazed pads won't recover — plan to replace them
4. Descend carefully: Use intermittent braking with long cooling intervals

Long-Term Solutions

• Sintered or gravity pads: Much more heat resistant than standard organic pads
• Larger rotors: Better heat dissipation
• Better technique: Brake hard, then release completely
• Fresh brake fluid: Old fluid boils at lower temperatures