Brake Pad Compound Guide | Loam Goat

Three Compounds, Three Jobs

Understanding brake pad compounds isn't complicated, it's about matching the right material to how you ride. We offer three compounds, each designed for specific conditions and riding styles.

Sintered

What it is: Metallic compound designed for maximum durability

Best for:

• Year-round wet riding
• E-bikes and heavy bikes
• Riders who want maximum pad life
• Budget-conscious riders
• North Shore and Whistler year-round conditions

Performance:

• Wet Durability: ★★★★★ (Excellent)
• Modulation: ★★★☆☆ (Good)
• Initial Bite: ★★★☆☆ (Strong)
• Noise Level: Moderate (some squeal normal)
• Heat Resistance: Excellent
• Pad Lifespan: Longest
• Rotor Wear: Higher than organic

Why choose sintered: Sintered pads use metallic particles bonded together under high pressure and heat. This creates an extremely durable pad that handles wet conditions better than any organic compound. They're the practical choice for BC riding: rain, mud, long descents, and year-round use.

Thermal characteristics: Sintered pads run hotter and transfer more heat to the rotor. The metallic composition conducts heat efficiently, pushing it into the rotor, caliper and brake fluid rather than dissipating it through the pad. This means the rest of the system works harder as heat sinks, but the pads maintain consistent performance even when hot.

Trade-offs:

• More rotor wear (metallic against steel creates more abrasion)
• Less refined modulation compared to organic
• Can be noisy (especially when cold or wet)
• Firmer lever feel

Our recommendation: If you ride year-round in BC, do long descents, or ride an e-bike, sintered pads are an excellent choice. They're forgiving, reliable, and last significantly longer than organic compounds.

Gravity Organic

What it is: Organic compound with high metal content, built to last

Best for:

• Enduro and bike park riding
• Long and steep descents
• Riders who want the longest-lasting organic pad
• Dry to mixed conditions
• Riders who don't mind a slightly longer bed-in

Performance:

• Wet Durability: ★★★★☆ (Good)
• Feel: Very close to Trail once bedded in
• Bed-in: Slower than Trail (a little noisy until bedded in)
• Noise Level: Quiet to very quiet
• Heat Resistance: Very Good
• Pad Lifespan: Long (less than sintered, outlasts Trail)
• Rotor Wear: Moderate

Why choose Gravity: Gravity pads pair organic feel with a higher metal content that stretches pad life and heat tolerance. Once bedded in they run quiet and feel very close to Trail at the lever. The difference shows up over weeks of riding: Gravity keeps going after a softer pad would be due for replacement.

Thermal characteristics: Gravity pads run cooler than sintered while maintaining better heat resistance than standard organic compounds. They keep heat in the rotor rather than the brake fluid, which prevents that spongy lever feel on long descents. The improved heat tolerance makes them suitable for sustained descents that would glaze softer organic pads.

Available with cooling fins: For e-bikes, long descents (15+ minutes), or repeated bike park laps, Gravity pads are available with extended cooling fins. The fins increase surface area and airflow, dissipating heat faster and maintaining consistent performance.

Trade-offs:

• Shorter lifespan than sintered (especially in wet conditions)
• More expensive than sintered
• Longer bed-in than Trail (can be a bit noisy until bedded in)

Our recommendation: If you want organic feel and the most mileage you can get from an organic pad, Gravity is the right choice. Give it a proper bed-in and it will outlast Trail on the same trails.

Trail Organic

What it is: Organic compound that beds in fast and runs quiet

Best for:

• Trail and all-mountain riding
• Technical riding requiring precise control
• Riders who want quiet braking from the first ride
• Dry conditions primarily
• Riders who want quiet, smooth braking

Performance:

• Wet Durability: ★★★☆☆ (Good)
• Feel: Very close to Gravity once bedded in
• Bed-in: Fastest (quiet almost immediately)
• Noise Level: Very quiet
• Heat Resistance: Good
• Pad Lifespan: Moderate (Gravity and sintered last longer)
• Rotor Wear: Low

Why choose Trail: Trail pads bed in super quick and run quiet from the first ride. The progressive engagement lets you feather the brakes through technical sections, modulate speed precisely on steep terrain, and brake smoothly without upsetting your line. This is what most OEM organic pads feel like: balanced, predictable, quiet.

Thermal characteristics: Trail pads run cooler than sintered and transfer less heat to the rotor overall. They're gentler on rotors and create less heat during sustained braking. However, they can fade if pushed hard on very long descents, that's when you'd want the finned version or a more aggressive compound.

Available with cooling fins: For long descents or riders who experience fade with standard organic pads, Trail pads are available with cooling fins. The fins help maintain consistent performance on extended descents while preserving the excellent modulation.

Trade-offs:

• Shorter lifespan in wet conditions
• Can fade on extremely long descents (without fins)
• More expensive than sintered
• Wears a little sooner than Gravity

Our recommendation: Trail pads are the all-rounder choice. If you're not sure what you need, start here. They work great for most BC trail riding, offer excellent modulation, and operate quietly. Most riders find this is the sweet spot between performance and versatility.

Finned Pads Explained

Finned pads feature extended cooling fins on the backing plate that increase surface area and enhance heat dissipation through improved airflow.

You need finned pads if:

• You ride e-bikes (extra weight generates more heat)
• You do long descents (Whistler, Fromme from top, mountain passes)
• You experience brake fade with standard pads
• You do repeated bike park laps 
• You can skip fins if:

• You ride shorter trails (under 10 minutes of descending)
• You ride XC or light trail bikes
• Your braking is intermittent rather than sustained

How fins work: Heat generated during braking gets transferred to the backing plate. Fins increase the surface area exposed to airflow, allowing heat to dissipate faster. More cooling = more consistent braking = no fade.

Available in:

• Gravity Organic + Fins
• Trail Organic + Fins

Comparison Table

Feature	Sintered	Gravity	Trail
Compound Type	Metallic	Organic (aggressive)	Organic (balanced)
Best For	Year-round wet	Enduro/park/aggressive	Trail/all-mountain
Wet Durability	★★★★★	★★★★☆	★★★☆☆
Modulation	★★★☆☆	★★★★☆	★★★★★
Initial Bite	★★★★★	★★★★☆	★★★☆☆
Noise Level	Moderate	Quiet	Very Quiet
Heat Resistance	Excellent	Very Good	Good
Rotor Wear	High	Moderate	Low
Pad Lifespan	Longest	Moderate	Moderate
Finned Option	Yes	Yes	No

Quick Selector Guide

Choose Your Compound in 3 Questions:

1. What do you ride?

• Year-round wet trails → Sintered
• Enduro, bike park, aggressive → Gravity
• Trail, all-mountain, XC → Trail

2. What matters most to you?

• Pad lifespan → Sintered
• Quiet from the first ride, fastest bed-in → Trail
• Longest organic pad life → Gravity

3. Do you do long descents (15+ minutes)?

• Yes + want organic → Gravity Finned or Trail Finned
• Yes + want affordable → Sintered (no fins needed)
• No → Standard version is fine

Rotor Size & Compound Selection

Does rotor size affect which pads I should choose?

Yes. Larger rotors dissipate heat better because they have more surface area and spin slower (generating less friction heat per revolution).

Rotor Size Guidelines:

160mm rotors:

• Generate the most heat (spin fastest, least surface area)
• If doing long descents or riding an e-bike: Sintered or Finned Organic
• For short XC trails: Trail works fine

180mm rotors:

• The sweet spot for most trail and all-mountain riding
• Standard pads work great unless doing sustained descents
• All compounds suitable for normal trail riding

200-220mm rotors:

• Best heat dissipation available
• Can confidently run any compound
• Even Trail Organic works on long Whistler descents

Rotor Temperature Guide:

Check your rotor color after a long descent to diagnose your braking system:

• Silver/Grey (normal): System handling heat fine
• Light gold/straw (200-250°C): Getting warm, acceptable for long descents
• Purple/violet (300-350°C): Getting very hot, upgrade rotors or switch to heat-resistant pads
• Blue (400°C+): Overheated, definitely need larger rotors or better pads
• Dark blue/black spots (500°C+): Severe overheating, immediate upgrade needed

If your rotors consistently turn blue or purple, your braking system is being pushed beyond its capacity. Either upgrade to larger rotors OR switch to Gravity/finned organic pads.

FAQ: Common Questions

Q: Are organic pads better than sintered pads?

Neither is "better", it depends on your priorities. Organic pads (Gravity and Trail) offer quieter operation and a more progressive feel. Sintered pads last longer in wet conditions, cost less, and require less frequent replacement. Choose based on your riding style and conditions.

Q: Can I run different compounds front and rear?

Yes, but most run the same compound front and back. Some riders run sintered (where most braking happens) with organic rear (for better modulation). However, this creates slightly different brake feel front/rear. For consistency, we recommend matching compounds. If you must mix: sintered front + Trail/Gravity rear works well.

Q: Which compound is closest to OEM pads?

Trail Organic matches most OEM organic pads in feel and performance (Shimano Resin, SRAM Organic, Hope Organic). Gravity has no direct OEM equivalent: it is an organic pad with high metal content, tuned for longer life and heat tolerance. Sintered performs similarly to OEM metallic pads.

Q: Do I really need finned pads?

Only if you ride e-bikes (heavy bike), do sustained long descents (15+ minutes), or experience brake fade with standard pads. For most trail riding under 10 minutes, standard pads dissipate heat fine. Finned pads are insurance against fade when heat buildup becomes an issue.

Q: I'm new to mountain biking. Where should I start?

If you're riding the North Shore or Whistler area: start with Sintered. They're forgiving, last longer, work in all conditions, and are less expensive. Once you understand your preferences, experiment with organic compounds for better feel.

Q: What's the difference between Gravity and Trail organic?

Honestly, on feel they are very close once bedded in, and we are not going to tell you one bites harder than the other. The real differences: Trail beds in super quick and is the quietest compound we carry, but wears a little sooner. Gravity takes longer to bed in and runs a bit noisy until it does, then lasts noticeably longer and handles sustained heat better. Pick on bed-in patience and pad life, not on bite.

Q: Can I switch from organic to sintered pads (or vice versa)?

Yes, but you should use a new rotor or thoroughly sand your existing rotor with 120-grit sandpaper. Mixing compounds on the same rotor causes glazing and poor performance. The different compounds leave different residue layers that don't play well together.

Q: My brakes are squealing. Will new pads fix it?

Often yes, especially if your current pads are contaminated or glazed. However, also:

• Clean your rotors with isopropyl alcohol
• Check rotor condition (scoring, warping)
• Ensure proper bed-in procedure
• Check caliper alignment

Squealing is usually contamination, glazing, or poor bed-in rather than the compound itself.

Q: Why are your organic pads more expensive than sintered?

Organic compounds use more expensive materials and have more complex manufacturing processes. The resins, aramid fibers, and precise compound formulations cost more to produce than metallic sintered pads. You're paying for better modulation, quieter operation, and refined performance.

Thermal Science: Why Heat Matters

Understanding brake pad thermal behavior helps you choose the right compound:

How Braking Generates Heat:

When you brake, kinetic energy converts to thermal energy through friction. This heat has to go somewhere, either it stays in the pad, transfers to the rotor or caliper and fluid, or dissipates into the air.

Organic Pads (Trail and Gravity):

Heat behavior:

• Heat is kept in the pad and rotor to dissipate, 
• Caliper insulated from generated heat
• Keep brake fluid cooler (less heat transfer to caliper)

Why this matters: Organic pads are gentler on your braking system. They reduce the chance of boiling brake fluid, and cause less thermal stress on components. However, the pad material itself has a lower heat threshold, push it too hard and the resin binders break down (glazing/fading).

Sintered Pads:

Heat behavior:

• Run hotter overall (higher friction coefficient)
• Transfer MORE heat to the caliper and fluid
• Metallic composition conducts heat efficiently
• Rotor becomes the primary heat sink with the rest of the system as the secondary

Why this matters: Sintered pads push heat into the rotor, which then dissipates it through its larger surface area and airflow. The pad material itself can handle very high temperatures without breaking down. This makes them ideal for sustained braking where heat buildup is inevitable but you run the risk of boiling your brake fluid and decreasing seal life.

Finned Pads:

Heat behavior:

• Cooling fins increase surface area of the pads by 30-40%
• More airflow over the backing plate
• Heat dissipates faster before reaching brake fluid
• Maintains consistent pad temperature

Why this matters: Finned pads solve the heat buildup problem for organic compounds. You get the modulation and feel of organic pads with the thermal performance approaching sintered pads. The fins act like a radiator, pulling heat away from the braking surface.

Installation & Bed-In Critical

No matter which compound you choose, proper installation and bed-in are essential:

Installation basics:

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove retaining pin/clip (usually 3mm or 4mm Allen key)
3. Remove old pads
4. Clean caliper pistons with clean rag
5. Insert new pads (check orientation!)
6. Replace retaining pin/clip
7. Reinstall wheel

Bed-in procedure (critical):

1. Clean rotors thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and if you’re changing pad compounds a light sand with 120 grit sandpaper before the alcohol
2. 20 stops from 15 km/h (10 mph) → slow to 5 km/h (DON'T come to complete stop)
3. 10 stops from 25 km/h (15 mph) → slow to 5 km/h (harder)
4. 2 stops from 30 km/h (20 mph) → slow to 5 km/h (hard)
5. Let brakes cool completely (10-15 minutes)

Why bed-in matters: Bed-in transfers a thin, even layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. This layer is what creates consistent friction and proper braking. Skip bed-in and your pads will glaze, squeal, and underperform. Take the time to do it right.

Still Not Sure? We Can Help

Every rider is different. If you're not sure which compound fits your riding style:

📧 Email us: hello@loamgoat.com
📍 We're local: North Vancouver riders who know these trails

Or order with confidence: every pad is covered by our 60-Day Happiness Guarantee. Ride them, and if the compound doesn't suit you, email us and we'll swap you to the right compound or refund you.

Why Loam Goat?

Local Stock, Fast Shipping
Every pad ships from North Vancouver. Order by 12pm PT Mon-Fri to ship same day

Tested Where You Ride
We test on Fromme, Seymour, Whistler, and Squamish trails. These pads work in BC conditions.

Real Riders, Real Support
Questions? We're riders who actually answer emails and understand your setup.

Better Value
Our pads come from specialist brake manufacturers overseas, and we test every compound on North Shore trails. You're paying for performance, not branding.

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