Brake Pad Installation & Bed-In Guide | Loam Goat

Complete Guide to Installing and Bedding-In Disc Brake Pads

Proper installation and bed-in are critical for brake performance. Skip these steps and even the best pads will squeal, glaze, and underperform. This guide walks you through both processes step-by-step.

Tools & Materials Needed

Required Tools:

  • 3mm or 4mm Allen key (for pad retaining pin/bolt)
  • 8mm wrench (if your retaining clip uses a bolt)
  • Tire levers or wheel removal tool
  • Clean rags (no fabric softener, no oils)
  • Isopropyl alcohol (90%+ purity)
  • Flashlight (for inspecting pistons/caliper)

Optional But Helpful:

  • Bike stand or work stand
  • Piston press tool or flat plastic wedge (if pistons need resetting)
  • 120-grit sandpaper (if switching compound types)
  • Torque wrench (for precise caliper bolt tightening)

What NOT to Use:

  • ❌ Brake cleaner (leaves residue)
  • ❌ Soap or degreaser (leaves film)
  • ❌ WD-40 or any lubricant (contaminates pads/rotors)
  • ❌ Paper towels (can leave lint)
  • ❌ Used rags from chain maintenance (oil contamination)

Part 1: Removing Old Pads

Step 1: Secure Your Bike

With work stand:

  • Clamp bike securely by seatpost or top tube
  • Ensure bike won't tip or move

Without work stand:

  • Flip bike upside down (rest on seat and handlebars)
  • OR lean against wall with wheel you're working on facing out

Pro tip: If working on rear brake, shift to smallest cog first (easier wheel removal).

Step 2: Remove Wheel

Quick-release:

  1. Open quick-release lever
  2. Unscrew opposite side a few turns
  3. Pull wheel straight out (be careful of rotor)

Thru-axle:

  1. Unscrew thru-axle completely (usually counterclockwise)
  2. Remove axle fully
  3. Pull wheel straight out

Disc brake specific warning:

  • Don't squeeze brake lever with wheel removed (pistons will fully extend)
  • If you accidentally squeeze lever, you'll need to reset pistons (see troubleshooting section)

Step 3: Inspect Caliper & Rotor

Before removing pads, take a moment to inspect:

Check rotor condition:

  • Thickness: Should be 1.5mm+ (measure with caliper)
  • Surface: Look for deep scoring, warping, or cracks
  • Color: Blue/purple = overheated, may need replacement
  • Contamination: Oil spots? Clean with isopropyl alcohol

Check caliper:

  • Look inside at pistons, are they clean?
  • Look for brake fluid leaks around pistons
  • Check for pad material buildup on pistons

Red flags requiring attention:

  • Sticky pistons (not retracting evenly)
  • Brake fluid leaking from pistons
  • Severe rotor scoring (>0.5mm deep)
  • Warped rotor (wobbles when spun)

Step 4: Remove Retaining Pin/Clip

Type 1: Spring Clip (Most Common)

  1. Locate the small retaining clip (usually top of caliper)
  2. Use 3mm Allen key to loosen retaining bolt slightly
  3. Pull clip straight out or wiggle it out
  4. Don't lose it—you'll need it for reassembly!

Type 2: Retaining Pin

  1. Locate retaining pin (usually pushes through from top)
  2. Use 3mm or 4mm Allen key
  3. Unscrew pin completely
  4. Pull pin straight out

Type 3: Cotter Pin/Split Pin

  1. Bend split pin legs straight with pliers
  2. Pull pin straight out
  3. You may need to replace with new pin

Brake-specific notes:

  • Shimano: Usually spring clip with 3mm Allen bolt
  • SRAM: Usually retaining pin with 3mm Allen
  • Hope: Usually retaining pin with 4mm Allen
  • Magura: Usually retaining bolt with clip

Step 5: Remove Old Pads

  1. Once retaining pin/clip is removed, pads should slide out
  2. Note pad orientation—some pads are directional (left/right specific)
  3. Pull pads straight out (may need to wiggle slightly)
  4. Remove pad spacer if present (thin spring between pads)

If pads won't come out:

  • Pistons may be too extended—gently push them back slightly
  • Check if pad spacer is catching on something
  • Try pulling from different angle

Step 6: Inspect & Clean Pistons

With old pads removed, look inside caliper:

  1. Check piston condition:

    • Are they clean? (should be smooth ceramic/plastic surface)
    • Are they even? (both pistons should be retracted equally)
    • Any brake fluid leaking? (wet = problem, needs bleed/service)

  2. Clean pistons:

    • Use clean rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol
    • Wipe each piston surface clean
    • Remove any pad material buildup
    • Never use abrasives on pistons (can damage seals)

  3. Push pistons back (if needed):

    • If pistons are extended, they need to retract for new pads
    • Use piston press tool or flat plastic object like a tire lever
    • Push SLOWLY and EVENLY (both pistons simultaneously if possible)
    • Don't force—if they won't retract, you may have air in system (needs bleed)

⚠️ Warning: If pushing pistons back causes brake lever to feel spongy afterward, you may have air in the system. This means you need to bleed your brakes.

Part 2: Installing New Pads

Step 1: Prepare New Pads

  1. Inspect new pads:

    • Check for damage in shipping
    • Verify correct size for your brake
    • Note any directional markings (L/R, rotation arrows)
      • Our pads are symmetrical

  2. Don't touch braking surface:

    • Handle pads by backing plate only
    • Oils from skin contaminate pad surface
    • If you do touch surface, clean with isopropyl alcohol

  3. Check pad orientation:

    • Our pads are symmetrical
    • Some pads are left/right specific
    • Some have rotation direction arrows
    • Some have inner/outer designations

Step 2: Install Pad Spacer (If Applicable)

Many brake systems use a thin spring or spacer between pads:

  1. Retracts pad from rotor to prevent dragging
  2. Ensures even piston spacing

Brands that use spacers:

  • Shimano: Spring spacer
  • SRAM: Spring spacer
  • Hope: Spring spacer
  • Magura: Depends on model

Step 3: Insert New Pads

  1. Orient pads correctly:

    • Our pads are symmetrical
    • Check for L/R markings
    • Check for rotation direction arrows
    • Backing plate faces outward (pad material faces inward toward rotor)

  2. Slide pads into caliper:

    • Insert both pads simultaneously (if spacer allows)
    • OR insert one pad, then spacer, then second pad
    • Push until pads are fully seated

  3. Verify positioning:

    • Pads should sit flat against pistons
    • Gap between pads should be even
    • Pads shouldn't bind or catch on caliper body

If pads won't fit:

  • Pistons may not be retracted enough—push them back further
  • Verify you have correct pad model for your brake
  • Check for debris or buildup in caliper

Step 4: Install Retaining Pin/Clip

  1. Insert retaining pin/clip:

    • Follow reverse of removal process
    • Push pin/clip fully into position
    • Ensure it's seated completely

  2. Tighten retaining bolt:

    • Don't overtighten (snug is enough)
    • Typical torque: 1-2 Nm
    • Verify pads can't wiggle or fall out

  3. Test pad movement:

    • Pads should move slightly within caliper
    • This is normal—they need to self-center on rotor

Step 5: Clean Rotor Thoroughly

This step is CRITICAL for proper bed-in:

  1. Spray/wipe rotor with isopropyl alcohol:

    • Use clean rag dampened with alcohol
    • Wipe both sides of rotor
    • Remove all oils, dirt, and old pad residue

  2. Let rotor dry completely:

    • Alcohol evaporates quickly (1-2 minutes)
    • Ensure no residue remains

  3. Don't touch rotor surface:

    • Handle rotor by inner spider only
    • Oils from fingers contaminate rotor
    • If you touch it, clean again

⚠️ Special case: Switching compound types

If you're switching from organic to sintered (or vice versa), you need to:

  • Sand rotor surface with 120-grit sandpaper (circular motion, both sides)
  • Then clean with isopropyl alcohol
  • This removes old compound layer and prevents glazing

Step 6: Reinstall Wheel

  1. Align rotor with caliper:

    • Slide rotor between pads carefully
    • Don't force, rotor should slide in easily
    • If it won't fit, pistons or pads may need adjusting

  2. Seat wheel properly:

    • Ensure axle is fully inserted
    • Wheel should sit evenly in dropouts

  3. Tighten axle:

    • Quick-release: Tight enough to leave light imprint on hand
    • Thru-axle: Typical torque: 12-15 Nm (check bike specs)
    • Verify wheel spins freely without rubbing

Step 7: Check Caliper Alignment

If rotor rubs on pads:

  1. Loosen caliper bolts slightly (don't remove)
  2. Squeeze brake lever firmly (this centers caliper on rotor)
  3. While holding lever, tighten caliper bolts (typical torque: 6-8 Nm)
  4. Release lever and spin wheel—rubbing should be gone

If rotor still rubs:

  • Rotor may be bent/warped (needs truing or replacement)
  • Caliper may have uneven piston extension
  • Wheel may not be seated properly

Part 3: Bed-In Procedure (CRITICAL)

Why bed-in matters:

Bed-in transfers a microscopic layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. This layer is what creates consistent friction and proper braking. Skip bed-in and your pads will:

  • Squeal and screech
  • Glaze over quickly
  • Feel weak and inconsistent
  • Wear unevenly

Bed-in physics:

During bed-in, controlled heating of the pad compound causes a thin, even layer to transfer to the rotor. This layer must be built gradually with proper temperature cycling (heating + cooling).

Step 1: Find Safe Space

You need:

  • Flat, straight road or path (at least 50-100m)
  • No traffic or obstacles
  • Consistent surface (pavement or hard-packed gravel)
  • Slight downhill is ideal (easier to gain speed)

Where to bed-in:

  • Empty parking lot
  • Quiet residential street
  • Bike path during off-hours
  • Smooth trail

NOT ideal:

  • Busy road (unsafe)
  • Steep descent (too much speed)
  • Technical trail (can't focus on braking)

Step 2: Bed-In Process

Phase 1: Light Stops (20 repetitions)

  1. Accelerate to 15 km/h (10 mph)

  2. Apply steady brake pressure

    • Use ONLY the brake you're bedding (front or rear)
    • Brake firmly but not hard
    • Don't lock up wheels

  3. Slow to 5 km/h (DON'T come to complete stop)

    • This is critical—don't stop completely
    • Coast slowly to let brakes cool slightly

  4. Accelerate again and repeat

    • Do this 20 times
    • Each stop should feel progressively stronger

Why not stop completely?

  • Coming to complete stop imprints pad material unevenly
  • Creates "hot spots" on rotor
  • Causes pulsing/vibration during braking

Phase 2: Moderate Stops (10 repetitions)

  1. Accelerate to 25 km/h (15 mph)

  2. Apply HARDER brake pressure

    • Significantly harder than Phase 1
    • Still don't lock wheels
    • Firm, steady application

  3. Slow to 5 km/h (still don't stop completely)

    • Coast to let brakes cool

  4. Repeat 10 times

    • Brakes will start feeling warm—this is expected
    • Power should be noticeably stronger by end

Phase 3: Hard Stops (2 repetitions)

  1. Accelerate to 30 km/h (20 mph)

  2. Apply HARD brake pressure

    • Maximum braking force
    • Just short of locking wheel
    • Strong, aggressive braking

  3. Slow to 5 km/h (still don't stop completely)

    • Coast to let brakes cool

  4. Repeat just 2 times

    • Brakes will feel hot—this is normal
    • Final layer transfer happening

Phase 3: Cooling (Essential)

  1. After final hard stop, ride slowly for 5-10 minutes

    • Let brakes cool completely
    • Don't apply brakes during cooling period
    • Just coast or pedal gently

  2. Brakes will smell

    • Slightly burning smell is normal
    • This is pad compound curing onto rotor
    • Smell should dissipate after cooling

Step 3: Post Bed-In

First ride:

  • Power will improve over first 1-2 rides as layer fully develops
  • Avoid extremely hard braking for first ride

After 2-3 rides:

  • Brakes should feel strong, consistent, and quiet
  • If they're still squealing, you may need to re-bed-in

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Issue: Brake Squealing After Installation

Possible causes:

  1. Pads not bedded-in properly → Re-do bed-in process
  2. Rotor contaminated with oil → Clean with isopropyl alcohol, may need sanding
  3. Pads contaminated → Replace pads (can't be cleaned effectively)
  4. Rotor glazed → Sand rotor with 120-grit sandpaper, re-bed-in
  5. Caliper misaligned → Re-align caliper

Solution: Start with cleaning rotor and re-bedding. If squealing persists, pads or rotor may be contaminated.

Issue: Brake Feels Weak

Possible causes:

  1. Not bedded-in yet → Do proper bed-in procedure
  2. Air in brake system → Bleed brakes
  3. Pistons not retracting evenly → Check piston condition, may need service
  4. Wrong pad compound for conditions → Consider different compound
  5. Rotor worn too thin → Replace rotor

Solution: Bed-in first. If still weak after 20-30 stops, check system for air or mechanical issues.

Issue: Lever Pulls to Handlebar

Possible causes:

  1. Air in brake system → Bleed brakes
  2. Pistons extended too far when installing → Reset pistons properly
  3. Brake fluid low → Check reservoir, add fluid if needed
  4. Pads worn out → Replace pads

Solution: This usually indicates air in system. Professional brake bleed required.

Issue: Pads Rub Constantly

Possible causes:

  1. Caliper misaligned → Re-align caliper using brake lever method
  2. Rotor bent/warped → True rotor or replace
  3. Wheel not seated properly → Remove and reinstall wheel
  4. Pistons extended unevenly → Reset pistons

Solution: Start with caliper alignment. If problem persists, check rotor straightness.

Issue: Pulsing/Vibration When Braking

Possible causes:

  1. Rotor warped → True rotor or replace
  2. Uneven pad bedding (came to complete stop during bed-in) → Re-bed-in properly
  3. Rotor contaminated with oil (hot spots) → Sand rotor, re-bed-in
  4. Loose caliper bolts → Tighten caliper bolts to spec

Solution: Check rotor straightness first. If rotor is true, re-do bed-in without stopping completely.

Issue: Pistons Won't Retract

Possible causes:

  1. Old brake fluid (contaminated/dirty) → Bleed brakes
  2. Dirt/corrosion on piston seals → Professional service needed
  3. Caliper damaged → May need caliper replacement

Solution: This requires brake bleed or professional service. Don't force pistons.

Emergency: Squeezed Lever With Wheel Off

If you accidentally squeeze brake lever with wheel removed:

  1. Pistons have fully extended and are now touching
  2. You need to reset them:

Method 1: Piston Press Tool

  • Insert piston press tool between pistons
  • SLOWLY push pistons back
  • Alternate sides if possible (even pressure)

Method 2: Flat Screwdriver (Careful!)

  • Wrap screwdriver tip in clean rag
  • Insert between pistons
  • GENTLY pry pistons apart
  • Don't scratch piston surface

Method 3: Tire Lever

  • Insert plastic tire lever between pistons
  • Gently push back
  • Safer than screwdriver (won't scratch)

If this doesn't work:

  • Caliper may need to be removed from bike
  • Professional service recommended

Maintenance Schedule

Regular Checks:

 

Every month:

  • Check pad thickness (should be >1mm compound remaining)
  • Inspect rotor for damage
  • Check brake lever feel (spongy = may need bleed)
  • Inspect pistons for cleanliness
  • Check caliper bolt tightness

Every 3-6 months:

  • Replace brake pads (depends on compound and riding)
  • Inspect rotor thickness (replace if <1.5mm)

Every 6-12 months:

  • Bleed brake system (fresh fluid)
  • Thoroughly inspect caliper, hose, and lever for damage

Brake Pad Lifespan Guidelines

Factors affecting lifespan:

  • Riding style (aggressive = faster wear)
  • Terrain (steep/technical = faster wear)
  • Conditions (wet/muddy = faster wear)
  • Rotor size (smaller rotors = faster pad wear)
  • Rider weight (heavier = faster wear)

When to replace:

  • Less than 1mm of compound remaining
  • Uneven wear pattern (beveled/angled)
  • Glazing that won't clean off
  • Contamination that won't clean off

Pro Tips

Tip 1: Install Pads Before Ride Day

Install pads the day before your ride, then bed-in. This ensures they're fully cured and ready when you need maximum performance.

Tip 2: Keep Old Pads as Spacers

Don't throw away old pads immediately. Use them as spacers when transporting bike (prevents accidental lever squeeze) or to put between pistons if prying open..

Tip 3: Bed-In New Rotors Too

If installing new rotors, bed-in procedure is even more important. New rotors need conditioning just like pads.

Tip 4: Document Your Work

Take photos before disassembly. Helps if you forget how something goes back together.

Tip 5: Bleed Brakes Before Pad and Rotor Work

Fluid from brake bleeding is the #1 source of pad/rotor contamination. Bleed first, then work on pads and rotors.

When to Seek Professional Help

You should get professional service if:

  • Brake fluid is leaking from caliper
  • Lever feels spongy after bleeding attempt
  • Pistons won't retract at all
  • Caliper body is damaged or cracked
  • You're uncomfortable with any part of this process
  • Brakes feel dangerously weak after proper installation

Don't risk your safety. If you're uncertain about any step, bring your bike to a shop.

Still Have Questions?

📧 Email us: hello@loamgoat.com
📍 We're local: North Vancouver. We're riders who've done this hundreds of times

We're happy to answer questions or walk you through any tricky steps.

Why Loam Goat?

Local Stock, Fast Shipping
Every pad ships from North Vancouver. Order by 2pm, pickup today or ships tomorrow.

Tested Where You Ride
We install and bed-in these pads on Squamish, Seymour, and Whistler. We know what works.

Expert Support
Questions during installation? We're here to help. Real riders, real answers.

Quality Pads
Proper bed-in only matters if you start with quality pads. Ours are tested and proven.

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